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IPR Question

well we are both thinking that it may be a bad high pressure pump. or a leak in the high pressure oil system. you could try and make a tool that will adapt to an air hose chuck that goes into the port at the icp sensor and close the ipr and listen for leaks. since the oil rails are integral to the heads i doubt they are leaking. and since the lines aree external then you would see them leaking. you can put the needle back in the ipr and just put 12v to it and that would put the ipr at a 1005 duty cycle. (like putting the needle in backward) it just seems that you are having to put up so much pressure to overcome a leak or a weak pump. i iahve replaced a couple failed pumps on a 7.3 but not many. not saying it is not possible. if you could get your hands on a scanner you could view your icp pressure while cranking. it is obviously too low for the injectors to operate. when you put the needle in the opposite way the pump is running at full bore. also if you cold view icp when the needle is in backward and if it is only putting out 1500psi or so you either have a leak or a bad pump. i just wish i had this thing in my bay right now.
 
fixxxer22 said:
well we are both thinking that it may be a bad high pressure pump. or a leak in the high pressure oil system. you could try and make a tool that will adapt to an air hose chuck that goes into the port at the icp sensor and close the ipr and listen for leaks. since the oil rails are integral to the heads i doubt they are leaking. and since the lines aree external then you would see them leaking. you can put the needle back in the ipr and just put 12v to it and that would put the ipr at a 1005 duty cycle. (like putting the needle in backward) it just seems that you are having to put up so much pressure to overcome a leak or a weak pump. i iahve replaced a couple failed pumps on a 7.3 but not many. not saying it is not possible. if you could get your hands on a scanner you could view your icp pressure while cranking. it is obviously too low for the injectors to operate. when you put the needle in the opposite way the pump is running at full bore. also if you cold view icp when the needle is in backward and if it is only putting out 1500psi or so you either have a leak or a bad pump. i just wish i had this thing in my bay right now.
Click to expand...

I am trying to track down a scanner on thedieselgarage and thedieselstop - I am worried about the HPOP as that sounds like both an expensive job and an unpleasant one.
 
the pump is not bad at all. a little tedious but not bad. i cna send you workshop manual directions. all you do is remove the fuel filter housing. the lines to the pump and the bolt through the sproket and the bolts retaining the pump. no biggie..
 
fixxxer22 said:
the pump is not bad at all. a little tedious but not bad. i cna send you workshop manual directions. all you do is remove the fuel filter housing. the lines to the pump and the bolt through the sproket and the bolts retaining the pump. no biggie..
Click to expand...

I was just looking online. It doesn't look bad at all - couple hours max. My Haynes Manual says I have to remove the turbo but I don't see how that could be the case at all.

A guy here at our work (who I have never met but owns a PSD) says he has a scanner that streams data. I will get it tomorrow and see if I have any luck on Wednesday night. There is an HPOP on Ebay right for 99 bucks with no bids so hopefully I could still make that auction deadline.
 
yeah, there is no need at all to remove the turbo. i have replaced a couple pumps but i have re-sealed many. its not bad at all.
 
The old HPOP is torn out and the replacement is in Laurel MD according to UPS Quantum View. Will be here tomorrow mid-day and I am going to put it on tomorrow.

Anything I should be aware of??

I couldn't believe the EBP Sensor fitting that was in the Exhaust Manifold came out. It was a northern truck for a while so you can imagine what kind of rust was built up on it.
 
you can just bend the fitting a little to get to the high pressure pump gear retaining bolt. but you are doing it by the book and that is the best way to do things the first time around. look at the ep sensor tube bung in the manifold. make sure the threads are there. you can get a new nipple next day from a ford dealer if needed. i have had them all come off but some take the threads with.

just fill the high pressure pump resivoir with new clean oil so its first compressing of any oil is new and clean. be sure to replace the gasket between the pump and resivoir. I have one i can give you and air you if needed. other than that it is pretty straight foreward. be sure to torque the bolt on the pump gear. have an assistant hold the crank if you dont find a compression stroke strong enough to get the wrench to click. i usuually roll them over with the torque wrench until i hit a compression stroke on a cylinder. then it is usually enough to hold the gear while i am torquing the bolt.
 
fixxxer22 said:
you can just bend the fitting a little to get to the high pressure pump gear retaining bolt. but you are doing it by the book and that is the best way to do things the first time around. look at the ep sensor tube bung in the manifold. make sure the threads are there. you can get a new nipple next day from a ford dealer if needed. i have had them all come off but some take the threads with.

just fill the high pressure pump resivoir with new clean oil so its first compressing of any oil is new and clean. be sure to replace the gasket between the pump and resivoir. I have one i can give you and air you if needed. other than that it is pretty straight foreward. be sure to torque the bolt on the pump gear. have an assistant hold the crank if you dont find a compression stroke strong enough to get the wrench to click. i usuually roll them over with the torque wrench until i hit a compression stroke on a cylinder. then it is usually enough to hold the gear while i am torquing the bolt.
Click to expand...

10-4 - Do you know the torque amount for the Gear Bolt off the top of your head?

If not hopefully my Haynes manual will have it.
 
FUUUCCCKKKKK I broke the damn fitting on the pressure regulator coming off the driver's side of the fuel bowl. I cranked the truck twice, and fuel went everywhere and then I realized I hadn't tightened the fitting down. Went back to tighten it up and "snap".

Truck didn't start on those two cranks but I can't say for sure it isn't fixed until I get this pressure regulator fixed

Just found this.

http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/fbowl.php

Looks like they are a weak spot and aren't under heavy pressure.
 
Last edited:
ok, well get that fixed but dont throw your hands up right away. it will take some extended cranking to prime the high pressure pump. also it will take a few key cycles to prime the fuel system since it has been drained and opened. cycle the key from off to run 6 times for 30 seconds before attempting to start to fully prime the fuel side of the system.
 
Yeah - I started thinking about it last night and the 2 times I cranked it probably wouldn't have mattered because most likely almost NONE of the fuel was getting through the filter - it was much easier to just spew out the fitting which wasn't tightened down.

I'm not pessimistic YET.
 
Nope - no success.

Cranked it to on about 5 times. Cranked the engine over about 10 times, with the same result as before. I am stumped and frustrated as hell.....
 
have you turned the needle around again to see of you at least have the high pressure oil system bled out?
 
that is a really good scanner. we have one in the shop we use for other veehicles than ford. they have verey good data capabilities. see if you can try it first. but 350 is really cheap! that thing would cost overe 3k (and they still make it) to buy new and get all the cords and keys. if you get it call me, or any scanner for that matter. it will be easier over the phone (563) 570-6010
 
fixxxer22 said:
that is a really good scanner. we have one in the shop we use for other veehicles than ford. they have verey good data capabilities. see if you can try it first. but 350 is really cheap! that thing would cost overe 3k (and they still make it) to buy new and get all the cords and keys. if you get it call me, or any scanner for that matter. it will be easier over the phone (563) 570-6010
Click to expand...

He's still got it and said if I picked it up tonight I could get it for 300.

I put the IPR valve back in backwards and the truck started right up. Put it back in the proper way and it didn't start.

I am going to go get it tonight I think. You available tonight 7ish or would you rather wait for tomorrow?
 
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